The Sacred Tea of the Shogun and Emperor: A Ritual of Honor and Prestige

Imagine a palanquin, guarded by a phalanx of soldiers, trekking through the 17th-century Japanese countryside. As the procession passes through villages, guards shout, “Get down! Get down!” and commoners drop to the ground in reverence. Even a powerful feudal lord, should he happen to be nearby, would step out of his own palanquin and bow.

If you’ve seen the brilliant TV series Shogun, you might assume that this palanquin carries a noblewoman or even the shogun himself. But surprisingly, the precious cargo in this case isn’t a person at all—it’s jars of tea destined for the Emperor.

In Shogun, you might recall a poignant tea ceremony between Lady Mariko and her husband, Buntaro, a moment that captures the human struggles behind Lord Toranaga’s rise to power. This character, based on the historical figure Ieyasu Tokugawa, unified Japan and ushered in the peaceful Edo period, which lasted over 250 years.

During this era, society was structured by a rigid class hierarchy—samurai, farmers, artisans, and merchants. Among the samurai, the tea ceremony became a refined cultural practice, embodying the values of Zen: discipline, self-restraint, and respect for tradition. The tea ceremony was not only a moment of reflection and inner tranquility, but also a way for the samurai class to demonstrate their sophistication and reinforce social bonds.

Tea for the Shogun and Emperor

The process of preparing tea for the Shogun and Emperor followed elaborate rules. In 1633, the third Tokugawa Shogun, Iemitsu, appointed 11 Cha-shi or Tea Officers to oversee the preparation of three special jars of tea each year. These jars, which each had unique names, arrived empty in Uji—a famous tea-producing region—on a specific day each year. They had to be filled within three days after the 88th night of the year, a critical time in the tea harvest.

A proclamation was posted in Uji stating: “No new tea may be sent out before the tea jars have departed.” First, 20 half-bags of the finest thick tea (koicha), known as Hatsu Mukashi and Ato Mukashi, were placed into the jars, followed by thinner tea (usucha) to fill the remaining space. These jars were then sent to Otagiyama in Kyoto, where they remained for three months under the protection of the Chief Tearoom Official (O-Sukiya-gashira) and Lower Tea Officials (O-Bozu-shu). From there, they were transported to Edo (modern-day Tokyo) under the protection of 50 guardsmen.

Each jar was carefully wrapped in silk, placed in a padded box, and carried in a custom-made palanquin. The procession spanned the distance from Kyoto to Edo, and upon arrival, the Shogun personally tasted the tea. The finest tea was reserved for the Emperor, while the Shogun kept one jar for himself and distributed the third to the Tokugawa lords of Kii, Mito, and Owari. The tea was so valuable that its worth was set at 35 oban (large gold coins) or 335 ryo of gold.

Tradition and Exclusivity

Over time, some of these rules were relaxed, particularly those that burdened commoners, such as the requirement to provide horses for the procession. Nevertheless, the tea, especially Hatsu Mukashi and Ato Mukashi, remained a rare and coveted treasure. Even the most powerful daimyos (feudal lords) could not purchase this tea directly. Instead, they had to request it from the Tea Officers, often offering gold as a gesture of gratitude for each jar granted.

Strict rules also governed the Shogun’s Tea Room (chashitsu), where an entire staff was dedicated to its upkeep. Some servants were on duty day and night, ready to serve tea at a moment’s notice. The Chief Tea Master was tasked with ensuring that the highest standards of decorum were maintained within the tea room.

A Lasting Legacy

The ceremonial tea for the Shogun and Emperor was more than just a beverage; it symbolized the prestige, tradition, and order of the Tokugawa shogunate. Every step of its journey, from the fields of Uji to the palanquin’s guarded procession, underscored the importance of ritual and respect. Though centuries have passed, the legacy of these tea traditions continues to influence Japanese culture, reminding us of a time when even a simple jar of tea was treated as something sacred.

To learn more about the Japanese tea ceremony we recommend The Japanese Tea Ceremony - Cha-no-yu and the Zen Art of Mindfulness by AL Sadler. You can purchase it right here in our store.