A Darjeeling second flush is supposed to be muscatel. That's the whole reputation of the season: grapes, warmth, a bright fruity lift that no other region can copy.

Reserve goes somewhere else entirely.

Okayti made only a small quantity this year, from long leaves shot through with gold. The liquor pours a rich amber, a bit lighter than the estate's own Muscatel, and the flavor follows it down. Ripe apricot and wild orchid up top, then molasses and jaggery — that unrefined cane sugar you'd find in an Indian kitchen, more caramel than sweet — carrying a weight you don't expect from this altitude.

It is velvety rather than brisk. Flavorful and refined.

Small batch. When it's gone, it's gone until next year.