Differences Between First Flush, Second Flush and Autumn Flush
You might have heard us use the term first flush, second flush and autumn flush particularly when talking about teas from Darjeeling and Nepal. What do these terms mean? Very simply they are used to distinguish different tea productions on the basis of seasons.
First flush is picked and made from late February through April, as the bushes wake from three to four months of winter dormancy. Second flush follows in June–July. May is usually a month of rest for the bushes, although with today's erratic weather, second flush manufacturing sometimes begins in May. Autumn flush is picked and made in October–November, after the monsoon.
Tea character by flushes
Depending upon the flush teas have different characters in terms of appearance, body and taste. First flush has a lighter appearance both for its leaves and the made cup. The leaves of a first flush look largely green, so much so that it can be easily mistaken for a green tea if you are not familiar with it. In the cup the tea liquor appears pale, anywhere from amber to light golden hue. Far from a typical black tea.
The body of a first flush tea is delicate with flavors that can include floral (wild flowers), fruity (peach), grassy and earthy notes. First flush teas also tend to have a bit of astringency that provide a wonderful balance and crispness to the cup.
A word on astringency. It is a desirable quality in first flush, even if the word sounds negative. You don't want it to overpower the tea's other flavors, nor do you want it missing. It's what gives the cup its crisp bite.
Steeping first flush teas at 176F (temperature that is normally reserved for green teas) for 3 minutes, using about 3 gm for 10 oz of water produces the best results.
Second flush tea is a product of early summer. The tea from this season is considerably darker compared to first flush. Appearance wise it is more like a typical black tea. The leaves are dark brown and grey. A cup of second flush tea appears dark amber.
The body of a second flush tea is mid to heavy with aroma that ranges from nutty to fruity. There is one much sought after flavor note in second flush tea which is described as muscatel. It is supposed to be reminiscent of the muscato grapes. Notes that are commonly ascribed to second flush teas are almond, chocolate, earthy, rose, biscuit, plum.
Personally, I like my first cup in the morning to be a first flush. I don't like to be jolted awake, and a fine, delicate cup wakes me gently. In the afternoon, when my energy dips, I reach for a stronger second flush.
Steeping second flush tea at 195-200F, for 3 minutes, using 3 gm to 10 oz of water, produces the best results.
What about the monsoon?
From July through September, the Darjeeling hills sit under nearly ceaseless rain. Tea is still made, but this "rains tea" is lower in quality and mostly goes into blends. That's why you rarely hear about it.
Autumn flush tea looks quite a bit like second flush tea. Even taste wise they can appear very close and sometimes it is hard to tell them apart. Autumn flush tea is produced during October-November. The dry tea leaves look dark brown and grey like the second flush. In the cup, the autumn flush liquor has a bit of a coppery hue. The body can be a touch lighter than second flush.
Autumn flush was long considered the lesser season, a little harsh. In recent years gardens have paid closer attention to how they make it, and there are now some very good autumnal Darjeelings.
For autumn flush tea the same steeping parameters used for second flush can be applied: 3 gm of tea for 10 oz water at 195-200F and 3 minutes steep.
Is "flushes" a universal term?
Very few things in tea are universally applied. Just like the various ways in which tea is consumed, tea manufacturing follows varied styles, standards and labels around the world. The term flushes are generally used for high mountain teas from the Indian sub-continent. In China, Taiwan and Japan the approximate term would be pre-Qingming, spring oolong and Sincha respectively. Taiwan is also popular for its "winter oolongs" which are produced during November.